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Porto Vintage, Fonseca (37.5 cl) - 2017

  • Provenance: Portugal
  • Appellation: Porto
  • Domain: Fonseca
  • On-call time: 25 years
  • Style of wine: Vin doux
  • Alcohol degree: 20%
The 2017 Vintage Port, not quite bottled when seen but the final blend, is a field blend (with typical grapes like Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesca, Tinto Cão, Tinta Roriz and Tinta Barroca) aged for approximately 20 months in used French oak. It comes in with 98 grams of residual sugar, a little drier on paper than its Taylor sibling this year. Sappy and sensational in flavor and fruit, this seemingly has moderate tannins around the edges on first taste, velvety texture and a long finish. Despite the first impression of moderation, there is plenty of power here. As it got some aeration, it showed nothing but power and closed down fairly hard. The combination of great fruit and fine structure makes this a potentially great Fonseca, but right now it is obviously immature and not showing everything it has. I'd recommend some patience here. 96-98/100 Wine Advocate ; 95/100 Decanter ; 95/100 J. Suckling ; 95/100 Vinous ; Jancis Robisnon : 17.5/20
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Viticulture

C'est le vintage classique, issu d'une année donnant des vins avec un potentiel de garde phénoménal. Assemblé à partir des trois terroirs de Cruzeiro, Santo António et Panascal, il reflète la typicité propre à chacun. Cruzeiro lui apporte son fruit noir intense et ses tannins fermes et serrés, tandis que Panascal lui confère sa matière fruitée riche, dense et veloutée. Santo António, pour sa part, contribue à la complexité et au dynamisme du grand vin, le dotant d'un parfum fin et d'une acidité bien fraiche.

Suggestions for accompaniment

A boire après quelques années de garde sur un civet de lièvre, un stilton, un dessert au chocolat noir ou pour accompagner un cigare.

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