Clos de Tart Grand Cru - 2017

Provenance: Burgundy
Appellation: Clos de Tart
Domain: Mommessin
Grape variety(ies): Pinot noir
On-call time: 25 years
Style of wine: Vin de grand terroir
Alcohol degree: 13.5%
Classement: Grand Cru

Vinous 96-98/100 "The 2017 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was matured in around 80% new oak, the barrels toasted "chauffe blonde". Jacques Devauges mentioned that the wine needed oxygen ingress during maturation that only new oak can give. I tasted the component parts (as usual) as well as the blend. This has a very detailed, delineated bouquet offering mainly black fruit mixed with sous-bois, tobacco, clove and bay leaf, the typicité of the appellation showing through nicely. It feels very succinct and yet so fresh. The palate is beautifully balanced on the entry with a killer line of acidity. Pure black cherry fruit is joined by bilberry, hints of black olive and a marine/oyster shell tincture that comes through quite strongly towards the persistent, saline finish, which fans out with confidence. This is a brilliant follow-up to the benchmark 2016 by Jacques Devauges and his team. "Decanter 96/100; Wine Advocate 93-95/100

Technical sheet >

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Technique

Viticulture

Located in the commune of Morey-St-Denis (of which 0.3 ha are in Bonnes-Mares), in a south-eastern position, exactly between Bonnes-Mares and Clos des Lambrays, on a steep slope. The soil is marl and limestone and the vines are planted in the direction of the contour lines, as in the past. The whole of this grand cru belongs to a wine merchant (Mommessin): it is therefore a monopoly.

Oenology

The grapes from the different microclimates are sorted one by one and then vinified in separate vats. The proportion of whole, totally destemmed or partially destemmed grapes varies according to the vintage. When the alcoholic fermentation is complete, the marc is poured into a pneumatic press. The new wine is matured in new rooms for about 10 months in the cellar before being transferred to cool, damp underground cellars to complete its maturation.