Definition: Kerner

The poet's wine. Like other Germanic-sounding white grape varieties, Kerner is a cross between two grape varieties. German vineyards are located at the northernmost edge of the climate zone suitable for growing grapes. This has prompted scientists in the country to search for varieties that are resistant to cold weather and fungal diseases, which tend to develop in areas with insufficient sunlight. Among the crosses with interesting potential are Freiburger, Scheurebe, Regent and, of course, Kerner. This grape variety is a cross between red Trollinger and Riesling. This combination was first trialled by August Herold of the Weinsberg Institute for Viticulture and Oenology in 1929. This hybrid combines interesting taste qualities with resistance to frost and major diseases, and has seen significant development both in Germany and abroad.

Until 1969, the grape variety was not officially recognised. At that time, it was given the name Kerner in honour of a colourful character from Weinsberg: Justinus Kerner. This man was born in 1786 in the Württemberg region. Although from a modest family, he studied medicine at the University of Tübingen. In addition to his work as a doctor, he wrote and became one of the leading poets of the Swabian school alongside Ludwig Uhland and Gustav Schwab. His poems, always melancholic in tone, generally revolved around naturalistic or supernatural subjects.

In 1826, he met a woman named Friederike Hauffe, who was a sleepwalker and was said to have clairvoyant abilities. He studied her case and wrote a book, The Seeress of Prevost, which can be considered the first scientific work on the occult. This book led him to be considered one of the fathers of the "sciences" of the paranormal.

However, his work was not limited to a fascination with the strange. He composed a large number of poems, some of which were set to music, as well as songs that made him one of the renowned men of letters of Swabia. Also a great wine lover, he died in 1862. A little over a hundred years after his death, a rapidly growing grape variety was named after him.

It has always been difficult to navigate the nomenclature of grape varieties, which tend to adopt different names depending on where they are grown. This art is further complicated by the fact that some winegrowers tend to rename varieties as they see fit. This is the case with Kerner, as the Barrichet estate in Blonay markets this grape variety under the name St-Justin, in reference to the first name of Justinus Kerner. The sanctification of this grape variety's name may please the enemies of occultism, but it does not really help lovers of this grape variety to find their way around.

A plant from the north

Kerner has the qualities sought after in a crossbreed, namely a certain resistance to cold and disease, combined with interesting taste characteristics. These characteristics influence its vegetative cycle, which begins later than others, thus protecting it from spring frost, and also ends later, allowing the grapes to continue their ripening process for a few extra days. Like other robust grape varieties, it tends to grow exuberantly, forcing the winegrower to carry out continuous leaf removal.

After its approval in 1969, Kerner became widely distributed and established itself in its native country. Today, it accounts for about 7% of the total area under cultivation for German white wines. No one is a prophet in their own country, and Kerner does not enjoy a very good reputation in Germany, often remaining confined to a role as a blending or table wine. Despite this, it has managed to establish itself in many foreign vineyards, from British Columbia in eastern Canada to the south coast of Australia, via the United States and South Africa. Its qualities are particularly noticeable in vineyards where climatic conditions do not allow all varieties of Vitis Vitifera to be grown. In Europe, Kerner has also found a place in a wide variety of vineyards. It is grown in the wine-growing regions of Belgium, Slovenia and Switzerland, where it has attracted the interest of professionals in various cantons, including Ticino and Geneva.

In the city on Lake Geneva, it seems that the state vineyard was the first to experiment with this curiosity from across the Rhine. Claude Ramu, who planted it in 1985, confirms that he tasted it at the cantonal estate before being won over and introducing it to his own vineyard. His Kerner, called Saturnales, had a little trouble finding its audience at first, but today it sells easily. Along with him, a handful of other producers have developed an interest in this grape variety and vinify it as a single-varietal wine, in blends or as an overripe wine.

In the rest of French-speaking Switzerland, it has not seen significant development, with only the canton of Vaud, where half a hectare of vineyards are planted with Kerner, and Vully in Fribourg showing any interest. Although this grape variety has undeniable potential, the quality and diversity of traditional white wines from French-speaking Switzerland do not really leave it much room to grow, and it will undoubtedly always remain a curiosity in our country.

Where can it be found?

Kerner has no traditional home in Switzerland and its cultivation depends on individual initiatives. In addition to the cantons of Ticino and Zurich, our grape variety has mainly won over Geneva's winegrowers, several of whom produce excellent wine from it.

How much does it cost?

A bottle purchased directly from a producer costs between eleven and fourteen Swiss francs.

How long can it be kept?

Kerner wines are intended for relatively rapid consumption and should not be kept in the cellar for more than two or three years.

What food goes well with it?

Its aromatic range makes it a popular choice as an aperitif, but it also pairs well with spicy dishes. During hot weather, it is a pleasant and original alternative to the usual rosé.

What are its characteristics?

Highly aromatic, it offers scents reminiscent of Riesling and sometimes even Muscat. This grape variety combines a certain sweetness with spicy and lively notes. Relatively long on the palate and full-bodied, this curiosity is worth exploring and is one of the interesting curiosities that flourish throughout the canton of Geneva.

Some producers offering Kerner:

In Geneva

Claude Ramu at Domaine du Centaure - Claude-Alain Chollet at Domaine des Champs-Lingots - Jean-Jacques Gavillet at La Côte-d'Or. Not to mention Jean-Pierre Pellegrin's Kerner-Sauvignon blend, known as Grand-Cour blanc, which won an award at the Vinalies de Paris.

In the canton of Vaud

Albert Mamin at Domaine Barichet (marketed under the St-Justin appellation) - Éric and Anne Petit in Villars-sous-Yens.

Source: Alexandre Truffer, whose website we recommend visiting for all the interesting information it provides. ©RomanDuVin.ch 2005