Definition: Grange

A grand cru from Australia. This is Grange, formerly Grange Hermitage, a Shiraz red (the Australian name for Syrah) produced at a rate of 30,000 to 120,000 bottles per year by Penfold's, a huge company based in Magill, in the Barossa Valley, South Australia. The idea for this wine, which contrasts with the company's usual production, came in 1950 from Max Schubert, Penfold's technical director. It was inspired by a trip to Bordeaux in 1950, during which Max Schubert met wine merchant Christian Cruse and discovered red wines suitable for ageing. On his return to Magill, Max Schubert began his experiments. The first Grange, then called "Grange Hermitage", was produced in 1951. Initially criticised, this atypical wine won a gold medal at the Sydney Wine Competition. Grange comes mainly from the Magill vineyard. The clayey or sandy slopes are planted with 2,200 vines per hectare of Syrah, harvested by machine. Yields are low: 20 to 30 hl/ha. Sometimes, grapes from the Kalimna vineyards are used, along with a discreet addition of Cabernet Sauvignon. The Grange grapes are sorted and destemmed. They ferment (under a submerged cap) at 20-25°C for a week. Ageing takes place for around two years in American oak barrels. What does the Grange taste like? Nothing else. Certainly not like French Syrah, Hermitage or Côte-Rôtie wines. Powerful, tannic and very long on the palate, this highly original red wine for ageing is more reminiscent of Italian reds such as Barolo or Brunello. This confirms that, in terms of a wine's typicity, terroir takes precedence over grape variety.